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Retorque those heads after the first few rides to avoid issues and get rid of the junk hardware.

Here’s a super-upgraded solution for hardware issues. The thermal cycling of getting hot and cold can loosen the head cylinder nuts. A spring washer can help maintain proper torque. The coupler nuts offer a better grip on the engine mounts, intake, exhaust and cylinder head.

If you can get locally or online, go for it. If you want, I can sell them to you. I want to offer you some options and proven methods to get a secure, reliable mount of your kit components and save you the headache of blown and leaky gaskets.

My upgraded hardware kit includes:

  • 5 Bellville Washers
  • 10 – 8mmx24mm Coupler Nuts
  • 10- 6mmx18mm coupler nuts
  • 2ea- Cylinder Base Gasket and Cylinder Head Gaskets

$27.50 plus s&h (ORDER BELOW)


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Okay the thing you need to understand is this. One of the biggest problems that people have with their motorized bike is a hardware. I’m not saying the hardware is the ultimate automotive high strength grade eight nuts and bolts. Of course it’s not it doesn’t need to be no you also don’t need to slather everything and outrageously expensive thread locker okay if you properly fit everything on the bike make sure everything fits good the way it’s supposed to fit. It’s important that you’re not trying to put a bent or damaged part into an area where it doesn’t fit. If there’s a gap and you try to just over tighten your hardware you’re going to have failures. I’ve got a saying if it ain’t fittin’ right don’t even try to get it tight. OK, so you’ve got to make sure that you have proper fitment before you even think of tightening up a nut or a bolt, or a screw.

Let’s take mounting your engine for example. The first thing I do is I make sure that the rear motor mount is securely mounted to the frame w/ no gaps. Once you get the rear mount firmly mounted, where that it fits and mates against the seat tube first. You don’t get it super tight. You just get it bolted on then you look at the front motor mount. If you need to raise the engine to increase the gap and put something between the front motor mount and the down tube then do it if you need to. You decrease the distance and lower the engine and get it to fit better.

Let’s look at the geometry of the frame. Look at the two different angles of what where the seat tube is and the down tube are in relation to each other. The engine manufacturers just kind of guesstimate the average angle of those. Since not all bikes are not the same, you may have to go in and do a little filing on the engine mount or fabricate a mount that properly mates against your frame in the front. They do sell the CNC front mounts that can if they fit will make your job so much easier.

I highly suggest you look into that if you need it if you have any problems mounting an engine send me some pictures I’ll see what I can do to offer some help

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By hugmoto